Wednesday 6 August 2014

Settling In - A New Life in Jerusalem

Settling In - A New Life in Jerusalem

Hadassah had been very generous to me.  The five room apartment on the fifth floor in French Hill was large and roomy and very comfortable.  We had a panoramic view of Jerusalem and the Old City in the South, Mount Scopus and the Hebrew University next door and the desert leading down to the Dead Sea in the east.
The children were enrolled in religious schools (mamlachti dati) by Prof. Mann and Rebecca Shein.  The Junior School was located in a series of primitive asbestos huts on the crest of French Hill above the previous Jordanian Army emplacements and armed dugouts.  The other children in the school were either Georgian or Moroccan in origin, from the local neighborhood and from Neve Yaakov.  Sharon and Eugene were the only blond, light skinned children in their classes. The non-religious school next door was a beautiful new modern building.  When we attended the first Chanukah party our children formed a sharp contrast to their dark skinned class mates.  Craig (7th grade), Debbie (7th grade) and Bernie (8th grade) took the bus to the religious school in the neighboring suburb of Ramot Eshkol where they were overpowered by the extremely religious Americans.  There are many different worlds of religious observation: the orthodox Americans follow every mitzvah to the last letter, whereas the South Africans are much more lenient.  There was no Conservative Movement in South Africa and it was not uncommon to drive to a distant synagogue on Shabbat.  There were very few ghettos and kosher food was often difficult to acquire in the country districts.  Most of the Jewish families had started as traveling salesmen and lived in the country.  Most of the country congregations consisted of 20 – 30 families who maintained their own brand of South African Judaism.
The children rapidly adjusted to their new surroundings.  Craig was self-sufficient and soon led the stream in his class.  Debbie required a little help and encouragement while Bernie had greater difficulty with the language and the religious studies.  We took a private teacher and I devoted much time to helping Debbie. 
The neighbourhood synagogue was located in a wooden hut that had been vacated by the builders of the French Hill housing estate. It was very rough and primitive, not my idea of a synagogue in a new neighborhood in Jerusalem.  We became regular attendees but the environment was not ideal.  Moreover, the American timetable with close attention to the seconds and minutes of the clock was foreign to my concept of Judaism.
Gradually we were absorbed into the neighborhood and befriended a group of older retirees from the United States. We formed our own community, meeting during the week to learn and enjoying kiddushim on Shabbat.  The group included several retired rabbis and their families: many needed medical care and later became my patients.  Aileen formed a long term friendship with the wives. 



The house on French Hill also had a clear view of the road from Jerusalem to the North and the neighboring Arab town of Ramalah in the north.  When the war broke out we could sit on the verandah and follow the troop, transport and tank  movements northward out of Jerusalem and at the same time watch the war news on the television by Hertzog, the army commentator on television and who subsequently became the president.  
The apartment was located in the north eastern suburb of Jerusalem while Hadassah was in the far south east. The 3 Hadassah buildings had been planned as staff accommodation for the nearby Mt Scopus Hospital which was being renovated. The traveling from French Hill to Ein Karem became very tedious.  The trip in the morning took nearly an hour one had to negotiate the traffic of the city center at peak rush hour.  Dr. Karpas persuaded me to buy my own apartment.  We visited many apartments.  But each time we tried to close a deal the sellers raised the price.  Eventually, we bought our apartment directly from Hadassah.  It had belonged to Prof. Marcel Eliakim and was located in a very pleasant neighborhood on Keren Hayesod Street. I dubbed the area as the "Hadassah Ghetto" since  several of the senior professors had their homes nearby. We had the choice of several Hadassah apartments but this was the cheapest and we felt that we could manage it within our budget.  Fortunately, inflation was at its peak, we bought it in Israeli Lira and a fixed mortgage.  When we repaid it, devaluation had occurred and we found we made a great saving. 
The apartment was a little run down but a touch of paint and a few renovations to the windows gave it a bright new look.  The apartment had four rooms, 3 bedrooms, an entrance hall, a large living room and a handsome kitchen. 

It became clear that the move into the city was important.  The schools in French Hill were good but not quite up to scratch. 
When we moved we enrolled Eugene and Sharon at Horev School, an ultrareligious school based on the German movement founded by Hirsch in Frankfurt.  They enjoyed the move and Eugene soon graduated to the middle school yeshiva.  The three older children continued at Ramot Eshkol as we had a direct no. 4 bus from the front of the house. Bernie went to Horev High school. It was a very old building like the royal stables, located opposite the Bikur Cholim Hospital in Strauss Street. Fortunately, in her second year they completed building a new high school in Beit Vegan.  Later the other two girls joined her and enjoyed the learning with excellent teachers and became good friends with the girls in their classes. They had integrated into Israeli life although most of their friends were Anglo Saxon. Again, we had a direct bus to the school and all three girls matriculated comfortably.  They had a good education and I was fortunate to be able to study with Debbie.  She had a continuous call of "Daddy, Daddy, Daddy – I don't understand." I became very close to the school director, Mr Merzl and took care of him and his family.
The boys went to the Netiv Meir High School in Beit Vegan which was a Bnei Akiva High School. It was the elite high school in Jerusalem with an outstanding academic record.
Hadassah cardiology continued to expand.  The outpatient clinic grew from 20 to 80 patients. The residents would receive the patients: I then reviewed and examined all the patients personally with them and taught them good clinical medicine.
My own Hebrew evolution was a little slower.  After the debacle at Etzion ulpan I spent a summer semester at the Hebrew University afternoon ulpan which was far more academic and successful.  I would also spend hours with Miriam, my new Hebrew secretary and we would translate the most complicated Hebrew medical manuscripts.  Joe Borman sent Ariyeh Shaeffer, a 5th year student to improve my Hebrew and supplement the medical terminology and I was soon very fluent.  So fluent, that many of students did not recognize the words as they had become accustomed to the assimilated latin terms and Anglo-Saxon jargon. Unfortunately the language was oral and for years I had difficulty with reading and writing.
The acclimatization process was not too difficult: a new country, a new culture, a new language and a new daily routine. We were very happy and on Friday afternoons roam and explore the country.